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When Verizon came out with the Droid I was one of the first in line to get it. I don’t use the cell phone much, but I could sure use a mobile Internet device. However, it didn’t take long to realize that I couldn’t drop it carelessly in my purse like I did with my cell phone. Gladus (my Droid’s name) needed a protective case! Not just any case, but a custom- made fashionable case.
This case has a couple of key features that make it perfect for these types of devices. It’s very padded to give the screen lots of protection from hard-edged surfaces in my purse or from walls, doors or other hard surfaces that I might trip into. The closure does not touch the surface of the phone so it can’t scratch the screen. But the best feature of all is the lining. It is lined with the fabric that is used for eyeglass cleaner cloths. My screen gets cleaned each time I insert and remove Gladus from her case.
To determine the size of the pouch, measure the width, length and thickness of the device. This is the only tricky part. The Droid is 2 3/8” x 4 5/8” and is 5/8” thick. There’s only one template for cutting and it will be:

(width + thickness + 112”) x (length x 2 + thickness + 3” for the flap)

For the Droid that is:
(2 318+518+ 112)x((4518x2)+518+¼*+ 3)
Finished Measurement = 3 112” x 13” (rounded to the closest 1/)
* The is the foldover allowance for the flap.
Cut the following pieces to your finished cut measurements:
• One outside fabric (I used metallic painted cotton)
• One piece of Timtex or other stiffener
• One piece of batting, any medium-weight scrap batting will do
• Mistyfuse or other lightweight fusible web
You will also need:
• One or two eyeglass cleaner cloths, depending on the size of your case. I was able to get my lining out of one cloth.
• Velcro for the closure - about 3/4” square
• Decorative thread for the stitching around the case. You will use the decorative thread in the needle and bobbin.
Cut the lining pieces. I cut two pieces 3 1/2” wide and about %“ longer than half of the length or the cut pieces for the case—about 6 ¾”.
Fuse the lining pieces to the batting. The photo below shows the batting on the bottom, a layer of Mistyfuse and then the lining pieces. The lining pieces are lined up with the edges. The photo shows that they overlap in the center.
After it’s fused, topstitch through all layers at the overlay point. This will be on the inside back side of the case and it’s sufficient to have it overlapped. A seam is not necessary.
Fuse the outer fabric to the Timtex. Stack the lining layer on the outer layer with the batting and Timtex together in the middle. (Outer fabric is on the bottom, then Timtex, then batting and the lining is on top.)
Now we are going to identify the fold lines. In the photo below, I am measuring from the right side. From one edge measure the length of the device (4 5/8” plus about 1/2”). This is at the 5” mark on my case. The next line is that measurement again, plus %“ (5 %“). Chalk that line across the case lining and then baste it together through all layers.
Flip the case over and sew the rough hook piece of the Velcro to the outside cover. Position it in the center about ½” from the top edge. ONLY SEW THROUGH THE OUTSIDE COVER AND TIMTEX. Do not sew through the batting and lining. You are sewing the hook piece here so that you have the softer loop piece closest to the device. (In this photo you can also see the basting line for the bottom edge of the case.)
These next few steps may not make sense at first so I want to explain the concept of “turn of cloth”. This is a term that I learned in garment construction when sewing collars on coats and jackets. Threads Magazine has a great article explaining it in detail (see link at end of document). Basically, when you have thick layers that you are forming into a shape, the inside shape will be smaller than the outside shape.

Remember when we basted the layers? We did that just for this step. The middle section (back of the case) is the flat section. When you fold the lower section up into its final position you can see that the lining layer sticks out above the outside layer by about %“. Trim off the excess from the inside layer.
Now we are going to do the same with the flap. Fold the flap down into the closed position and draw the edge shape you want. Cut the edge shape through all layers. I wanted a curve and used a can as a template to trace the shape.
When you open the flap again you might panic if you see this—don’t worry about it. It’s going to work out perfectly.
Now it’s time to add the other piece of Velcro to the flap. Fold the bottom of the case up and the flap down and use chalk to mark where the Velcro needs to go.
Sew the Velcro in place, but only through the lining/ batting layer.
Using your decorative thread in the needle and bobbin, align the top edge of the lining/batting and outer fabric/ Timtex. Using a satin stitch (I set my zigzag at .04 length and 5.0 wide), sew across the top edge. Yes, your case should have that bulge.
Baste around the other three edges, stitching very close to the edge. You will stretch the lining a bit in this step to keep all of the edges aligned. That’s OK. The batting and lining have give and will stretch to fit. It will all lie properly when the case is folded in its final position. Remove that basting stitching now (the stitching that you did across the bottom and top folds).
Now fold the front up and stitch through all layers very close to the edge. This holds everything together for your satin stitching. The satin stitching will cover the straight stitching.
Starting at the bottom of one side, satin stitch around all the unfinished edges.
I satin-stitched the flap twice to make the edge prettier.
Now Gladus is well protected in my handbag and gets frequent screen cleanings as a bonus.